'I felt I could go on like this for ever; that life had little better to offer than to march day after day in an unknown country to an unattainable goal': Bill Tilman - 'Nepal Himalaya' (1949)
| Welcome to the trek reports.
If you've already visited Nepal I hope that you will find them interesting
as a record of what I've done in the past, and how I've seen Nepal change
over the last twenty or so years, and also (hopefully) bring back some happy
memories for you. If you're a 'newcomer' read them all the same, but remember
these are the my memories of the country and what I saw is completely different
to what you would see: even if you were to travel with me. (Remember, too,
that I have a 'wicked' sense of humour, as those who have travelled with
me know, to their cost). |
| My first visit to Nepal was
in December 1983, as part of a long (25 day) photo holiday in Rajasthan
and Nepal. I didn't want to go to India: I desired to see the high mountains
and (at that time) this seemed to be the best (albeit expensive) way to
do it. I went expecting to be disappointed: it was to be a 'once in a lifetime'
experience. It didn't turn out like that, of course, and within days of
setting foot in India I was thinking of other places to visit. To return
to 1983 though, much of what we did was pretty straightforward. We visited
Patan and Bhatgaon, but in those days the streets weren't paved, and Bhatgaon
was much like a medieval city. There weren't the hoards of street traders
about, and when you climbed up to Swayambhunath the only things that you
needed to fight off were the monkeys, not the sellers of 'knick-knacks'.
In Durbar Square the sadhus were real sadhus, not, as one local said to
me recently, 'businessmen from India'. Pokhara was different, too. It may
be a place to 'chill out' nowadays, but alongside the Lake, where the restaurants
are, were open fields. 'Fish Tail Lodge' was (literally) the only place
to stay. When a plane was due they sounded a siren, and someone went to
clear the cows off the runway. The mountains were the same though. Our trek
was a simple one: north from Pokhara and then west along the valley to Phedi,
and then up the hill to Naudanda. Here I saw sunset on the Annapurna Himal
for the first time. The next days walking was really only a half day walk:
along the ridge to Sarangot, and early on the third morning we tripped down
the hill to Pokhara for the flight back to Kathmandu. You wouldn't do the
walk nowadays: the last time I went through Naudanda it was in a battered
'Land Rover' on the Pokhara - Baglung road, and I don't think you'd camp
there, either... |
| The 1983 visit had been on
a photographic holiday organized by Alfred (Greg) and Sue Gregory. Both
were professional photographers: Greg had been the 'stills' photographer
on John Hunt's expedition which made the first ascent of Mount Everest in
1953. With people like these in charge, and with a party that included some
of the leading amateur photographers in the UK, together with some pretty
hard travellers, it was not surprising that I learned a lot about photography,
and about myself, too. In 1984 I was talking to Sue and she mentioned the
possibility of a 'Foothills Trek' that they were planning to do in 1985.
Was I interested? |
| The 1985 'Annapurna Foothills'
trek was a new concept. At that time there were comparatively few trekkers
in Nepal, and the trekking areas were limited: Everest, Langtang & Helambu,
Round Annapurna, and the Annapurna Sanctuary. There were some other routes
that have now fallen out of favour: Trisuli to Pokhara, via Gorkha, for
example. The great majority of organized groups camped: although there were
lodges the majority of them were very simple. The 'electrics' had yet to
reach Tatopani, and satellite television was unknown. Our trek was fairly
simple: Pokhara to the Kali Gandaki at Kusma, then up the river to Tatopani.
From Tatopani we had the long climb to Ghorepani, but then we were to cut
off into relatively unknown country, to Tadapani and Ghorepani, and then
to Landrung, Dhampus and Astam, before dropping down to end the trek in
Pokhara. Note that the trek started and finished in Pokhara, quite close
to the town; you could take a jeep to Phedi but most people walked. Our
first day's walk took us to Naudanda, a repeat of the 1983 trek, and we
camped at the same site. From there we walked to Bhadur, and then dropped
down a river valley to finally reach Dobila after a long days walk. In those
days there was no road up the Kali Gandaki, and there then followed a 3
day trek up the gorge to Tatopani. We went no further north, but then followed
the 'long drag' up the hill to Ghorepani. Ghorepani was a dump then, but
I suppose that it still is. The view from Poon Hill was good, though, and
well worth the effort. In 1985 the lower slopes of the hill were still clothed
in trees and you needed to climb to the summit to get the views. At that
time routes which are now regularly trekked were no more than 'trods' -
one such left the main Pokhara - Tatopani trail at Ghorepani and made its
way through the forests to Tadapani, and then down to Ghandrung. This is
now, deservedly, a popular trek route, but it was very unfrequented in those
days. Tadapani was two shacks on the ridge: but the views were the same,
and Macchapuchare was impressive with a 'crown' of lenticular clouds. Our
route back to Pokhara was what is now a fairly standard one; we dropped
down to the river from Ghandrung, and then climbed up to Landrung and Tolka,
over the ridge and down to Dhampus and Astam, but we ended our trek rather
further east than nowadays. Thus ended my first trek. |
| There was quite a long gap
before I returned to Nepal. In 1988 Greg & Sue put a trek together to
go into Ganesh Himal. Described as a 'foothills' trek I was sorely tempted
to go, but on advice opted to go to Peru & Bolivia instead. This was
probably a wise decision as 'Ganesh' apparently turned out to be an 'epic',
but I still wonder how I would have fared on it. (Peru & Bolivia were
excellent, though). |
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I never considered myself a 'hard' trekker (I still don't) and the thought of going 'high' never really appealed to me. In the summer of 1991 I asked Greg, in passing, where his 1992 'Foothills Trek' was going. His reply was that he didn't now yet, but he suggested I consider the 'Everest' Trek that he was organizing, with Ted & Jean Courtenay as 'Leaders'. Well, I suppose I had to accept the challenge. The first thing to say about the 1992 'Everest' is to repeat the warning about travelling on Friday 13th., especially if the airline involved is Royal Nepal Airways Corporation... (RNAC : Royal Nepal Always Cancels). We eventually arrived in Kathmandu...tired, but relieved to be there. If you've travelled in India and Nepal you will know the need to remain patient, and on this trip patience was a necessity. Next day we arrived early at Kathmandu airport for the flight to Lukla - six hours later we returned to the hotel. 'Wind is bad, sahib - no more flights today. Do not worry, you will be on the first flight out tomorrow morning. All flights are fully booked for next two weeks, but you will be on the first flight tomorrow morning'. The next morning the first flight took off at 07.37 and at 08.12 we landed at Lukla. (The above story is true, but first timers shouldn't think that this degree of luck will attach to them...unless they have a fistful of dollars). From Lukla we followed the trail through to Phakdingma where we camped and then followed the long climb up 'Namche Hill'. After spending one night at Namche for acclimatization we walked on a little further to Khumjung to spend a further two nights of all - important acclimatizing. Our trek was not a straightforward 'out and back': we were scheduled to visit other places and so, from Khumjung we walked up the valley of the Dudh Kosi to Gokyo, arriving in gently falling snow. Rather than camp we were put in a lodge, but remember that lodges in 1992 were rather different from today. The experience was interesting - the lodge was cold - the atmosphere was wonderful. Next day we made the 'Royal Progress' to the summit of Gokyo Ri - the view was superb; the climb, in soft snow, less so! It had been originally planned that we should cross the high Chugima (or Cho) La, to reach the upper reaches of Khumbu but snow had made the pass difficult and we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and so we retraced our steps down the Dudh Kosi and up to Phortse. From there we walked via Pangboche, Orsho, Pheriche, and Dzonghla to Lobuche. Those of you who have walked in the Khumbu will know that walking in this area is very easy but the altitude affects your progress. The walking is easy...provided you don't try and put one foot in front of the other... and so our motley procession made its way to Gorak Shep. We arrived in good time and some of the group climbed up to the summit of Kala Pattar, intending to visit Everest Base Camp the next day. The remainder of us sat in the sun and took it all in..., with the firm intention of doing the climb next morning. That night we had the one
really red sunset of the trek, but waking the next morning we saw that
winter was coming. It was cold, gray and misty, and getting worse. Reluctantly
we decided to go down, initially to Lobuche but, in fact, we went a lot
further - all the way to Dingboche. The next day was fine and we walked
up the Chhukkung valley but by this time on the trek I was suffering with
a bad cough and the walk was purgatory. From Dingboche we dropped further,
before climbing to Thyangboche ('Cold old place, Thyangboche') where we
saw the gompa being rebuilt after the 1990 fire. From there we made our
way back to Namche and then back down to Lukla for the flight back to
Kathmandu. The trek was voted a great success by all, and the inability
of the group to 'do' the high pass and Kala Pattar did not detract from
that success. They could wait for another year... |
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Five long years were to pass before I returned to Kathmandu. A change of lifestyle meant that I was now able to spend more time travelling and it was natural that I should look to Nepal. But where was I to trek, and how? The how was easy: 'lodge' trekking, with a guide and porter. But where...? Various ideas were thrown about but all were rejected. In the end the final decision came very easily - a return to the Annapurna Himal, walking up the Kali Gandaki to Muktinath, but using my previous experience of the area to put in enough variants to make it other than just following the straight 'tourist' trail. For this trek I was joined by my old friend Mick Melbourne and this was to be the first trek that I was to do that was organized by Pawan Tuladhar of Shiva Treks (now: Dharma Adventures). It was also to be the first trek where I employed Dendi Sherpa. Dendi came with us on that trek as a 'guide', but we parted as friends and have remained so ever since. Our little party of four travelled from Kathmandu to Pokhara (where both Mick and I were shocked by the changes to the town) and then on by taxi to Beni - no, we started by taxi, but finished in the cab of a lorry, leaving a broken taxi and sorry looking driver by Baglung bridge. My comment on that mornings journey is that we took less than 4 hours to travel what had taken six days to trek in 1985. From Beni we spent a long, hot afternoon trekking to Tipylang. Trying to reconcile memories of 1985 with this walk are difficult. There were certainly more trekkers about, but the trail was nothing like it is nowadays. Tipylang was still a little village in 1997. The next day we had a shorter walk to Tatopani, and then we were into what was new territory for both of us. We took three days to walk up the Kali Gandaki to Jomosom, and then a further morning to trek up to Kagbeni. The walk through the gorge from Beni to Kagbeni is one of total contrasts, as might be expected. Beni is sub-tropical, and the walk through the different vegetation and climatic regions to the high mountain desert of the upper Kali Gandaki is a joy. The next morning we set off for Muktinath, but altitude started to take its effect and we decided to stop for the afternoon and night at Jharkot. The climb from the river up to the villages is steep at first but enjoyable. This mornings' walk through an ever-changing landscape of grays and browns, with just a little green and yellow in small patches of fields, and under a pure blue sky was one of the highlights of the trek. Unfortunately things started to unravel a little, as that night I was stricken by a violent attack of 'Jharkot Jumps' and that put paid to plans to walk to Muktinath the next day. Why we didn't wait an extra day at Jharkot I don't know, as we still had 11 trekking days available, but we didn't, which is why 'The Pilgrim Trail' has no photographs of Muktinath in it. We made our way down the slopes to the Kali Gandaki and retraced our steps to Tatopani, finding as we did that it is true that photographs can be found behind you as well as in front. At Tatopani we faced the long climb to Ghorepani. This was the second time I'd climbed that hill - it doesn't get any easier, but the photography is superb. We reached Ghorepani at lunchtime on the second day, collapsing in the lodge and demanding tea. We didn't go up Poon Hill for sunset or sunrise. The evening was cloudy and in the morning we preferred to stay in the warmth of our sleeping bags (but you can get good photographs through windows - honest). The trail to Tadapani I knew from 1985, but it had changed. Then it had been little more than a 'trod', now it was a a substantial highway. Where had previously been shacks were lodges, with pizzas and pie. Tadapani was a revelation. I keep saying that in 1985 there were two shacks there; now there were lodges and tea shops, and a viewing tower, and a craft market - 'You have no money Sahib? No problem - I take Barclaycard'. But that days' trail had been a delight (it still is, if you can avoid the crowds) and the views from Tadapani are good... The trek was coming to an end and the next morning we dropped down through the forest to Ghandrung, and then to the Modi Khola. If you go down then you must go up, and so we climbed steeply up to Landrung for the night. A storm in the Annapurna Sanctuary soon gave way to a brilliant sunset on Annapurna South. Our last morning trekking was spent climbing up the hill to Deurali, a stiff climb, despite that we were fitter, and then we dropped through the woods on the well worn trail to Pothana and Dhampus. Surprisingly, we had a problem finding accommodation in Dhampus, but we eventually found a lodge at the end of the village. As Dendi said, 'She greeted us with 'Namaste'...'. It was rather a basic lodge but worth it for the view to the north - a classic view of the Annapurna range, with houses flanked by marigolds in front. The next morning we dropped, all too quickly, through terraces to the road. We left the lodge at 8.00 - by 10.15 we were drinking coffee in a hotel garden in Pokhara. And so back to Kathmandu and five glorious days of photography in the Valley.
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I had not intended to return to Nepal so soon after this trip, but the suggestion was made that I put a 'Reunion' trip together for the 1992 'Everest' team. Where to go? Not back to Khumbu, nor really the Annapurna. That left one fairly obvious possibility - a springtime trek into the Helambu, for the rhododendrons. Unfortunately none of the Everest gang wanted to come, but that didn't stop a group of four 'young in heart' (you can't really say 'Middle Aged') bachelors gathering in Kathmandu in March of 1999. The Helambu offers a good nine day trek, following ridges to the north of Kathmandu and which is not as easy as the guide books might imply. The lodges are not as sophisticated as those in the Annapurna region, but are adequate and, we found, friendly. Dendi was to be guide, with a couple of lads as porters and with his cousin Maia acting as 'Sherpani'. Every time I do the slide presentation from the 1999 treks I find myself saying that 'There are few photographs from that day...' Day one was hot and uphill, all the way to Chisapani (7,150') but it became apparent that we were going to have troubles with a very dirty haze. Day two, through Pati Bhanjyang, and Chipling to Gul Bhanjyang (7,100') was better, with some superb terracing, and the first rhododendrons. (Don't be fooled by the starting and finishing altitudes - there's a lot of climbing in this day). Day three, climbing up through Kutumsang to Mangengoth (10,500') has few photographs - it was uphill. The next morning's walk took us three hours to do what we might have done in ninety minutes, but we had climbed out of the haze and there were rank upon rank of ridges and snow mountains to look at. Rhododendrons, too, and primulas, wild strawberries and butterflies. Why hurry? We stopped in the lodge at Tharepati (11,800') that night - a very homely place and fortunately it didn't go up in flames, otherwise I don't think I'd be writing this. The next day was a glorious romp downhill through a resin scented pine and rhododendron forest, with trees hung with lichen and covered with fungi, to Melamchigaon (8,400'). We continued down to the Melamchi Khola and then up to Tarke Ghyang (8,400') - again there are few photographs from a day where we dropped 2000', and climbed it again.. The next day the two older members of the group decided to study the local economy and wildlife from comfortable seats in the lodge garden, whilst the two youngsters, no more fit really than their seniors, took Dendi to the summit of the nearby Yangri Danda (12,372'). From here it was downhill nearly all the way - a gradual contouring through forest to Shermathang (8,500'), and then a longer and steeper day dropping out of the forest and down to Melamchi Pul Bazaar (2,800'), where transport waited to take us back to Kathmandu. To Kathmandu, yes, but on the way back we stopped at Bhatgaon and walked through the 'old town'. My first memories of the place were of a dirty, medieval city, with sewage flowing down the middle of the streets... The city has now been 'restored', with much time and effort put into making it a more attractive place to visit. Try and arrive at the east entrance and, allowing yourself plenty of time, walk through the city to Durbar Square and out and onwards. I found this an extremely rewarding experience, both personally and photographically, and one that I would recommend.
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For reasons
which I don't understand, I found myself returning to Nepal that autumn
of 1999, to trek in the secretive Langtang valley. This is an idea introduction
to trekking for those who haven't much time, but who desire to see the
mountains close to. The failing of the trek is the long journey by road
from Kathmandu. Although the road to Trisuli Bazaar is reasonable, and
through interesting foothill country the second section to Dhunche (6,400')
is (or was, in 1999) unsurfaced and not good. It is a road on which the
first time traveller to Nepal might feel nervous. After an interesting
day's journey to Dhunche by bus we started our walk the next morning,
following the dusty Syabrubensi road out to Bharkhu, where we headed off
through the trees and over the ridge to Syabru. At Syabru (7,220') there
was to be one of those meetings that 'happen' - the first time we were
meet Maren and Harald - two unconnected Germans trekking in Nepal for
the first (but not the last) time. We were to see them almost daily on
this trek, and the friendship has continued since. The walk through the
woods to Lama Hotel (8,100') may have been good, but I was unfit, and
there was far too much 'up and down' for my liking - I was not fit and
I was glad to find a room for the night. The next day's walk on to Langtang
(11,400') was one of those walks to be savoured, as is much of the Langtang
trek. We walked at first through forests, and then as we climbed to Langtang
village through birch scrub. Langtang village is, I suppose, fairly typical
of villages in the trekking regions of Nepal - an interesting old village
and a grotty new one. Once the early morning wind had dropped there were
photographs everywhere - a low sun, and smoke rising from the houses made
for good pictures. That morning we walked to Kyangjin Gompa (12,800')
- walking slower as the altitude took some effect. Regrettably we could
only spend one night here, and after a morning's local exploration we
retraced our steps. That morning Dendi and I had followed the Langtang
glen beyond the summer grazing yersa of Yathang and towards Numbathang.
This walk was idyllic and it was with great sorrow that we had to return
to Kyangjin and drop down to Langtang. Certainly there was a lost opportunity
to explore this valley. From Langtang we retraced our steps to Lama Hotel
and then took the contouring path that eventually drops to Syabrubensi
(4,800'). Unfortunately here you are back in 'modern' Nepal - the end
of the road, with bus horns sounding at 6.30am, and the only way back
to Dhunche (mainly) along the road.
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The return to the Annapurnas in November 2000 must be classed as a mistake. The plan was, yet again, to try and get a group together and go into Lamjung Himal and yet again the plan failed. I put a 'foothills' trek together in the Annapurna Himal - Pokhara to Landrung and Chommrong, and then to Ghandrung and Ghorepani, followed by down the hill to Tatopani, and out to Beni. I was unfit and then I went down with a cold - the walks from Chommrong to Ghorepani were a purgatory and I wasn't very good company. Arrival at Tadapani was in a cold mist and the electricity was down. We walked from Tatopani to Ghasa Rupsu and back: I was so dehydrated that I drank seven large mugs of hot lemon afterwards. The walk to Beni was hot, and the transport back to Pokhara wasn't the best. What we did get were good sunrises at Tadapani and Ghorepani and I found the walk down to Tatopani a joy, with pictures all the way. Did I really take eight hours to walk down? On reflection I should have cut my losses and missed a trip in 2000 - or perhaps gone for Annapurna Sanctuary? |
But 2001 - that was going to be a good one...
(Because of space considerations the story of the Annapurna Circuit in 2001 is now on a different page)
'The Wonder of the World, the Beauty and the Power, the Shapes of Things, their Colours, Lights and Shades; these I saw. Look Ye also, while Life Lasts'.
(To be continued...
By popular demand the page will be extended to cover travels in
Rajasthan in 1983 and
Ladakh in 1990, as well as Peru and Bolivia in 1988)